Electrical problem 2000 Ford Focus 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic the code came out p1233 ( fuel pump driver module offline ) what exacly does this mean? The part is back ordered until july 5th 2010 and a ford dealer item, how can I test it with a meter at home to see if it is good or the wires are good. Should I replace the wires at the same time? My car will run good then with no warning just die turn the key off and it'll restart then u can drive and it'll do it all again like 20 minutes later, when it stalls it acts like it's getting no gas I put in a new fuel pump and filter 2 weaks ago plus it has a weak stream to the throttle (i think thats what he said) lol. So if the FPDM is bad or the wiring is bad ( heating up after running for a while) will the car stall like that even while driving down the road and what is the FPDM purpose?

Please help I appreciate it very much.

Ford Focus cars & trucks fuel pump driver module questions and answers. Ask your Ford fuel pump driver module related question. Get free help from top Ford. 2001 ford focus we have replaced the fuel pump after trblshooting the vehicle would run at idle if started with a id of carb cleaned down the throat. Thw new pump. Jan 22, 2011. If you have a Ford expedition, and you are pressing on the gas, and are cranking, but unable to start, if you have ruled out the issue to be battery related, it is probable a bad Fuel Pump driver Module. These are installed in the rear of the truck, usually by the spare tire. They are prone to corrosion and rust,.

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OUR PARTNER SUBREDDITS: • • • • • • • • • • • • • •. These issues started around last November.

The car would not start one day and it was determined by a mechanic that it was the fuel pump. It was replaced and then a little while after the vehicle died again. The car was taken back to the mechanic who said they found a corroded wire and that it was the issue. Ran for a little while, then all of a sudden wouldn't start one morning. A different mechanic looked it over and put in a new fuel pump a month ago. Yesterday the vehicle turned over, then sputtered and the engine shut off, no more fuel going to the engine. When the ignition is turned there is no sound of the fuel pump running.

Do you guys have any thoughts on the issue or any idea with what should be done? Thanks a lot in advance! This is NOT going to be EASY.

These have a fairly complex fuel pump wiring system. Avtake Cutfour Hd 3 Crackheads. Are you any good at electrical diagnosis?? Do you have a handheld digital volt meter??? I would like you to perform it. And i know i post this all the time.

Pay attention to test #5. Test a bunch of fuses in the under hood fuse box. As that is where the positive power for the fuel pump starts. Test 2, 3 and 4 are where the negative power starts.

You can get away without test #6 for this. In the underhood fuse block there should be a fuse labeled FUEL PUMP. Be sure to include both sides of the top connections for test 5. That fuse gets power from the ignition switch. Which is why i want you to check it.

Please use a test light this time. Probe the fuse top. While somebody slowly turns the key from off to ON to cranking and then back to ON and then slowly off. You should NOT have any dropout in power once you reach on. Thru cranking and back to on. Why do i ask this.

Because other focus models have had ignition switch issues. No power because the ignition switch is bad. No fuel pump power. No fuel injection system.

No computer power. That fuel pump fuse supplies power to the CCRM.

Constant current control module. Its a black box under the hood. Those go bad sometimes. Once in a while intermittent. Hard to test if you probe them without knowing exactly which wire to probe.

And REALLY CRAZY easy to blow the various solid state devices off the circuit board inside the CCRM. But i have more ways to test this system. Somewhere in your car is an intertia switch. I have not looked up the location yet on your year. And ford stashes them in many different locations. If you have your owners manual still. Its location might be listed.

There will be 2 wires into the inertia switch. Black and a pink stripe is the fuse side of the inertia switch. Please probe that with a test light again.

Same test light procedure you used on the fuel pump fuse. KEY ON you should get power.

Back to RUN POWER. When you turn it off you should loose power. But no glitches. This verifies the CCRM is properly turning on the fuel pump power circuit.

If you get as described power. Start the engine and pickup your volt meter. Set it to 20 volts DC and probe both wires into the inertia switch. In all reality you should get less than 0.02 volts. If you get more than that. You might want to replace the inertia switch.

Its just an ON and OFF switch that is ONLY off when you hit it hard. Or roll the car. There is a push button to reset it when its tripped.

You might want to know that i have had a few of these fail in cars and trucks newer than 2000 model years. From there the power on the wire out of the inertia switch goes to the fuel pump driver module. Its probably a blue wire.

But its hard to tell.. The fuel pump driver module could be under the back seats. Behind the back seats in the trunk. Or in the sides of the trunk.

Varies on model. Lets open the trunk.

Either close to the left rear tail light assembly or below the left of the trunk lid opening. There is a ground connector. Cannot tell how many black wires. You might want to with the engine turned off and the doors all closed. Disconnect that ground connection and clean it. That is the ground connection for the fuel pump.

And the fuel pump driver module. I tried to explain this as best i could. You could always rig a small lamp to monitor the voltage coming to the inertia switch. So you know if the ccrm is failing intermittently. Or do the same monitoring at the fuel pump fuse.

This is why you need somebody working the ignition key from OFF to ON, CRANK, ON. Trying to narrow down the several expensive parts or the less expensive parts. You can also disconnect the inertia switch and OHM it. It should be really close to 0 ohms with the digital meter set at 200 ohms. The inertia switch is probably the cheepest part of the whole system. The fuel pump driver module controls the speed of the fuel pump. As there is no return line.

Just a pressure sensor on the intake to tell the computer how much fuel pressure there is. And the computer changes the fuel pressure to control the engines needs.