Getting Started: Experience, Schematics. What Repair Experience Is Expected? Little experience in fixing pinballs is assumed. Basic electrical knowledge is.

PINBALL: Repair Bally 6803 Pinball Games 1985-1989. Support this Pinball Repair Website! (It costs money to provide this information.) Donations are being accepted, please see for details, and/or please purchase the repair instructional videos. In-Home Michigan Pinball Repair! Repairing Bally 6803 Pinball Games from 1985 to 1989 by (Clay Harrell), 08/18/17.

Copyright 2003-2017 all rights reserved. All pictures and text are by Clay Harrell, except where noted. This document is a 'work in progress' repair guide for Bally 6803 pinball games made from 1985 (Cybernaut) to 1989 (Atlantis). Internet Availability of this Document. Updates of this document are available for no cost at if you have Internet access. IMPORTANT: Before Starting! IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN CIRCUIT BOARD REPAIR, YOU SHOULD NOT TRY TO FIX YOUR OWN PINBALL GAME!

Before you start any pinball circuit board repair, review the document at, which goes over the basics of circuit board repair. Since these pinball repair documents have been available, repair facilities are reporting a dramatic increase in the number of ruined ('hacked') circuit boards sent in for repair.

Most repair facilities will NOT repair your circuit board after it has been unsuccessfully repaired by you. If you aren't up to repairing your circuit boards yourself, please see the web page for professional repair people. Table of Contents 1. • • • • • • 2. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 4. • Bibliography and Credit Where Credit is Due.

Many of the ideas in this repair guide are not original. Lots of people contributed to this document, and I just want to say, 'thanks!' Below are a list of the resources used in the development of this guide. Some resources/people may have been innocently left out. If this is the case, and an idea is here that was originally yours, please notify me and I will make sure to give you credit! • Clive Jones (ClivejonesEN at netscape.net).

This manual would have *not* been possible without Clive's help. •, who provided tons of tips and tricks.

• Bob Ellingson (bob at halted.com). • Tat-2 aka Ed. Ed sold me a bunch of 6803 parts and boards which were used to create this document. • Duncan Brown. Duncan provided lots of tips and tricks.

Some people question whether I wrote all this material myself. I did, but of course like everyone, my repair techniques and ideas are gathered not only from my own experience, but from work that others in this hobby do and share at shows, on the internet, etc. So if you're the originator of some cool trick or tip in this document, and I'm not giving due credit, just let me know and I'll add you to the list of contributors above. Getting Started: Experience, Schematics What Repair Experience Is Expected?

Little experience in fixing pinballs is assumed. Basic electrical knowledge is helpful, but not necessary. I do assume you can solder and use the basic features of a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) such as measuring voltage and resistance. Please see for details on the basic electronics skills and tools needed. This document should help if you just bought your first (or second, or third) pinball 'as-is', and hope to fix it. Manual/Schematics - REQUIRED FOR THIS SYSTEM OF GAMES. Bally 6803 games absolutely require a game manual.

The 'register' system of adjustments and audit unfortunately make fixing, diagnosing and adjusting these games impossible without the game manual. So don't be cheap, just get one! See the page for recommended sources of a game manual. Some online schematics are available too: • (2.1 meg) 1b. Getting Started: Necessary Tools Fixing electronic pinball games will require a few tools.

Luckily, most are not that specialized and are easy to get. Non-Specialized Tools Required: • Work Light: clamp style lamp • Screwdrivers: small and medium size, phillips and flat head • Nut Drivers: 1/4', 5/16', and 11/32' • Wrenches: 3/8', 9/16', 5/8' required, other sizes suggested • Allen Wrenches: get an assortment of American sizes • Needle Nose Pliers • Hemostat. Handy for holding parts and springs.

Best to have both the curved and straight versions if possible. Specialized Tools Required: These specialized electronics tools are needed. Please see for details on the basic electronics tools needed.

• GAME MANUAL. This is a *must* for the Bally 6803 games. • Alligator clips and wire. Buy these at Radio Shack, part number 278-001, $3.69. • Soldering Iron.

• Rosin Core 60/40 Solder. • De-soldering tool. • Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). • Logic probe. • Hand Crimping Tool: Molex WHT-1921 (part# ), Molex part#, Amp 725, or Radio Shack #64-410.

Cleaning 'Tools' Required: • Novus #2 or MillWax (for cleaning playfields and rubber) • Novus #3 (for polishing metal parts) • Johnson's Paste Wax or Meguire's Carnauba Wax (for waxing playfields and cleaning rubber) Novus is available at many places (my local grocery store sells it), or from any good pinball vendor. I don't recommend MillWax, but others like it (mostly because they have been around for a LONG time and are used to it).

Do not use any Wildcat products or CP-100! Cmdt 2011 Free Download Pdf. They react with plastic and can yellow ramps and lift mylar.

Johnson's paste wax or Meguires Carnauba Wax is available at Walmart or the like. Getting Started: Parts to Have On-Hand When fixing electronic pinballs, I would highly recommend having some parts on-hand to make things easier and cheaper. All these parts are available from a pinball retailer. Parts to have: • GAME MANUAL. This is a *must* for the Bally 6803 games. • #555 light bulbs: have 20 or so around.

Fifty is plenty to do most games. • #89 flash bulbs: have 10 or so around.

• Fuses: I would have five of any needed value on hand at all times. Get 250 volt fuses, not 32 volt (32 volt fuses are for cars). Radio Shack sells fuses for a decent price. Slow-blo fuses are known as MDL fuses.

Fast-blo fuses are known as AGC fuses. Though fuses are game specific to some degree, here's a list that covers most 6803 games: • 1/4 amp slow-blow • 2.5 amp slow-blow • 4 amp slow-blow • 5 amp slow-blow • 7 amp slow-blow • 8 amp slow-blow • 10 amp slow-blow • 10 amp fast-blow • 15 amp fast-blow • 20 amp fast-blow • Nylon Coil Sleeves • Shooter Spring: the short chrome spring on the outside of the shooter mechanism. These rust and look like crap in short order. • 1 1/16' Pinballs: a new pinball will make your playfield last longer. • Leg Levelers: replace those old crummy looking leg levelers with brand new ones. 3' are used on solid state games. • Rubber Rings: you can order game-specific ring kits with exactly the rings you need.

Don't forget to get flipper rubbers and a shooter tip. • 2N5060 Silicon Controlled Rectifiers (lamp matrix).

This is a.8 amp at 30 volt device. Available from Mouser (part# 610-2N5060, $0.39). Also a 2N5062 (.8 amp 100 volt) can work too. • MCR106-1 or NTE5411 Silicon Controlled Rectifers (lamp matrix). Also known as a T106.

This is a 4 amp at 30 volt device. Available from Mouser (part# 519-T106F1, $0.75). • TIP102 (a more robust replacement of the SE9302/2N6045/TIP122/NTE263 solenoid driver transistors). • CA3081 or NTE916 (used to drive coils). This is the pre-driver transistor array. It looks like a chip, but it's actually several transistors mounted in a chip package. • 1N4004 diodes (used on the CPU board and on coils).

• 1N4148/1N914 diodes (used extensively). Note can be substituted for the 1n4606, which is used on the MPU board in the reset section. • 2N5305 transistor, used on the MPU board to drive the LED.

This is a darlington NPN transistor and the more common 2N6427 can be substituted. • MLED930 (Bally part E-587-27) light emitting infrared LED, used on the ball trough (A080-1895-B000) transmitter Opto board, like on Truck Stop.

Note the NTE3028 equivalent has the emitter as the polarized opposite from the original part. To use the NTE replacement, mount with the metal tab in opposite position to what is printed on the circuit board. • 11,000 mfd 16 volt axial capacitors.

Used for the +5 volt filter cap. • 6803 CPU chip.

• 6821 PIA chip. Have several around as this is a commonly failed chip. Also the 68A21 or 68B21 will work. • 6116 RAM chip. • Machine pin SIP sockets, used for replacing chips (cut to size needed). •.156' Trifurcon connector terminal pins Molex #. •.156' connector header pins Molex # (15 pin, with lock, cut to size).

•.156' connector housings Molex # (15 pins, cut to size). •.156' connector housing polarizing pins Molex #.

•.100' connector terminal pins. •.100' connector header pins. •.100' connector housing. •.100' connector housing polarizing pins.

•.084' connector pin male, Molex# (power module board). •.084' connector pin female, Molex# (power module board). The transistors and diodes are available from many sources.

Please visit the reference page for suggested sites. Getting Started: Bally 6803 Game List. 6803 Games with four 7-digit Numeric Score displays and Squawk & Talk sound board, keypad used. These games also used one six digit score display (only 4 digits used) for credits/match. • Cybernaut, 9/85, unknown number produced, 7-digit numeric displays. Produced with both 6803 boardsets and the older Bally -35 boardsets, but the -35 boardset version seems to be more prevelant.

Also produced (in extremely limited numbers, probably just a few) with a 6802 board (A080-19638-D000 MPU) that looks nearly identical to the -35 MPU board. For repair info and LED flash sequences for the -35 and 6802 boards, see the as most of the information there including the LED flash codes is the same. Differences between the 6802 and -35 MPU boards include: • 6802 CPU chip (instead of a 6800) • 5114 memory chip (instead of a 5101), which is the same physical 18 pin size as the 5101 but the 5114 holds four times more (1024x4 bits). • no 6810 memory chip (the 6802 has on-board memory so the 6810 is not needed) • can work with one 2764 program EPROM at U7 instead of two 2732 EPROMs at U2/U6 • no clock circuit (instead uses a 2 mHz crystal and two caps) • a complete different reset cicuit (with a 74hc538 and a 2N3904 for the 5114 RAM), The reset line is high after power-up, and then goes low after valid power is detected via 2N3904/2N4401 transistors. • Additional jumpers W1-W6 next to TP5 • Compatible (software) with the -35 MPU board But most Cybernauts do use the -35 MPU board, so Cybernauts with a 6802 or 6803 MPU board are fairly rare. • (6.1meg), 9/85, #0B38, 1500 produced, speech, squawk & talk sound board.

•, 11/85, #0C70, 500 produced, speech, squawk & talk sound board. • Hot Shotz,?/85, 6 produced,,. 6803 Games with four 7-digit Numeric Score displays and Cheap Squeak sound board.

These games also used one six digit score display (only 4 digits used) for credits/match. • Lady Luck, 2/86, #0E34, 500 produced. 6803 Games with two 9 segment, 14-digit alphanumeric displays and Turbo Cheap Squeak sound board. These score displays were 'low res' with only nine segments.

'Registers' no longer used for adjustments, keypad used. • Motordome, 5/86, #0E14, 2000 produced. Fluorescent 24 watt backbox light, no speech, no multiball, 34 watt incandescent backbox light bulb (turned on and off during various 'special effects' by means of the small 'Solid State Relay' board in the backbox), 68000 based A084-91864 'Sounds Deluxe' board. • Black Belt, 7/86, #0E52, 600 produced, no speech, Turbo Cheap Squeak sound board# A080-91855-C000.

• Karate Fight, 7/86, unknown number produced. Same game as Black Belt #0E52 but renamed for the European market. • (3.1meg), 10/86, #0E35, 2350 produced, Turbo Cheap Squeak sound board with speech, backbox uses a circular Fluorescent light bulb, neon light mounted on top of backbox, no fuse board. • City Slicker, 2/87, #0E79, 300 produced, Turbo Cheap Squeak sound board# A080-91855-E000. •, 3/87, #0E94, 2000 produced, generic cabinet art. 6803 Games with two 9 segment, 14-digit alphanumeric displays and Sounds Deluxe sound board.

These score displays were 'low res' with only nine segments. •, 8/86, #0E47, 2750 produced, 68000 based A084-91864 'Sounds Deluxe' board. • Party Animal, 5/87, #0H01, 2250 produced, 29 watt incandescent backbox bulb, Sounds Deluxe board with speech. • (4.3meg), 8/87, #0H03, 1600 produced. Sounds Deluxe sound board A080-91864-C000, speech, fuse board, custom cabinet artwork, five ball multiball. • (6.9meg), 10/87, #0H06, 2000 produced, Sounds Deluxe sound board A080-91864-C000, no discernable speech but does have laughter, cackles, a roar, and several background tunes, in addition to the normal distinct sounds (gong, blips, etc.).

Four ball multiball, LED ball trough switches, custom cabinet artwork, last 6803 game with keypad, 34 watt incandescent backbox bulb turned on and off via Solid State Relay A084-91880-A000, fuse board in backbox. Interestingly this game uses weird legs; 28.5' long for the front (standard size) but 34' for the rear legs. •, 1/88, #0H05, 1500 produced,, two front 'Initial scrolling buttons' which were used instead of the 6803 keypad, Fluorescent backbox light, Sounds Deluxe board# A080-91864-C000, speech.

Interestingly this game uses weird legs; 28.5' long for the front (standard size) but 34' for the rear legs. •, 3/88, #0H07, 3000 produced, LED ball trough switches, did not use the 6803 keypad, incandescent backbox light, fuse board, sounds deluxe board# A080-91864-C000, limited speech. Unlike other 6803 games, BW100 has large power transformer in the lower cabinet, instead of the backbox. Interestingly this game uses weird legs; 28.5' long for the front (standard size) but 34' for the rear legs. 6803 games under the Williams/Bally name. These last 6803 games still used the Bally 6803 CPU board, the two 'low res' nine segment 14-digit alphanumeric displays. For the sound board Williams used their system 11b sound board #D-11581, and a small interface board which allowed the 6803 CPU board to talk to the System11 sound board.

Williams also used a system11 50 volt flipper power supply board. Bally was bought by Williams around 1987, and Williams used the remaining stock of 6803 boardsets for the first two Williams/Bally games.

But after Atlantis, all 'Bally' games used Williams System 11 boardsets. • (7.3meg), 12/88, #2001, unknown number produced, prototype name was 'Ramp Warriors', did not use the 6803 keypad. Used non-standard, smaller 15/16' balls? • (1.8meg), 4/89, #2006, unknown number produced, did not use the 6803 keypad. Different CPU board chip numbering to conform to Williams numbering system, Williams system11b sound board #D-11581 (speech) and small sound board interface board, Williams system11 50 volt flipper board, 6803 fuse board. The backbox to the last 6803 game, Atlantis.

Getting Started: Introduction to Bally 6803. Bally's 6803 system, used from 1985 to 1989, incorporated some unique features and designs that differed from the other pinball manufacturers.

Generally speaking, these games were not that good, but there were some 'stars' amoung the black (Strange Science probably being the most notable). The '6803 Control Board' (aka 'CPU Board', which is what I call it in this document) used a 6803 CPU chip as the brains of these games (and hence the '6803' name). The 6803 was different than the 6802/6808 used by Williams previously, in that the 6803 supports 'multiplexing'. As Bally used multiplexing, this allowed the CPU chip to support more CPU controlled playfield lamps and flash lamps with less driver board SCRs (transistors).

The 6803 chip also has onboard RAM, much like the 6802 chip. Two 6821 PIA (Peripheral Interface Adaptor) chips were used to interface the 6803 CPU chip to the lamps, coils and switches (much like the Bally -35 boardset and Williams' pinball systems). Static RAM is handled by a 6116 RAM chip (instead of the problematic and discontinued 5101). Most noteworthy is the use of a single board for both the CPU board and driver board.

This minimized the number of connectors needed in the game (connectors were always a source of reliability problems in electronic pinballs). Another concept transplanted from the earlier and very successful Bally '-35' CPU board was the power-on LED flashes. The new 6803 CPU board also had power-on flashes to diagnose problems with the board. This power-on flash concept stayed until Escape from Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truckstop and Atlantis, when Bally took a step back.

Instead of doing the power-on flashes, these games have just a faint single power-on 'flicker' if the CPU board passed power-on diagnostics. If the board found a problem, then the flash sequence started. The infamous Bally 6803 keypad for audits, adjustments, and diagnostics. A concept that never really worked well, but that Bally obviously thought was a great idea, was the keypad input. Inside every 6803 game (except Escape from Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truckstop and Atlantis), there was a keypad with the numbers 0 to 9, A to F, and 'enter', 'keybd/clr', and 'game' buttoms. This allowed the operator to view exact audits or adjustments without having to scroll sequentially to get to the audit/adjustment number desired.

The problem with this system is the keypads are often missing from the game. They disconnect with a single.156' Molex connectors, and are easily lost. Without the keypad, using the Audits/Adjustments/Diagnostics is impossible! And replacement keypads are difficult to find.

The whole keypad concept was abandoned with Escape from Lost World, as Bally finally sobered up, and instead used a secondary set of flipper cabinet buttons and the start button to emulate the keypad. Note starting with the 14 digit score display games (Motordome), the keypad could be used to scroll through the audits.

The 'brains' of a 6803 Control Board: the 6803 CPU chip and its two 6821 PIA chips. Multiplexing was used on the flashers (or 'Bright Lamps' as Bally called them). This allowed one SCR driver to potentially control two devices. As Clive Jones describes, there's a 43 volt AC secondary transformer line that's center tapped to give two 21.5 volt AC lines, phase C & D. These 21.5 volt AC secondaries were wired directly to the flash lamps and fed as two 'sets' into the CPU board. The two sets would share a SCR lamp drivers.

Therefore, the flashers were all AC driven (no rectifier and no filter cap was used). Note flashers don't share driver circuits with solenoids because the solenoids are DC driven. Bally could double the number of flashers it had using this multiplexing technique.

The feature lamps (CPU driven lamps) were also just AC powered, 11 volts AC to be exact. The same principle occured with these.

The secondary 20.5v AC was center-tapped to produce two 11v AC lines, phases A & B. No rectifier and no filter cap. These lines were wired to two 'sets' of feature lamps that shared the same SCR on the CPU board, as per the flashers. The reason 11 volts AC is used and not 6 volts AC becomes clear: the voltage is doubled to keep the brightness up because the feature lamps are only on for half the time! So with the CPU board having 45 SCRs (35 small 2n5060 SCRs, and 10 larger MCR106-1 SCRs), Bally could use any combination of 90 feature lamps and flashers as long as a flasher and feature lamp didn't share the same SCR. For example, the Extra ball lamp and the Multi-ball lamp could be wired to the same SCR driver. The EB lamp would be 'on' for phase A and 'off' for phase B, the Multi-ball lamp would be 'off' for phase A but 'on' for phase B.

The SCR driver was obviously on for both phases. Bally was able to double their feature lamps and flashers by using the same hardware, without resorting to auxillary lamp or solenoid driver boards. Simple but brilliant, but also more problematic when diagnosing problems, as it is more complicated locating lamp/flasher problems.

Now how did Bally control the A/B and C/D lines? They used zero-crossing, which occurs 120 times a second for an AC wave (every time the AC wave passes through zero volts). Phase B was wired to zero-crossing detector on the CPU board which generated an NMI interrupt for the 6803 processor. The 6803 then knew when it was time to switch on the 'other' phase SCRs. The 6803 is also capable of directly reading the phase A state because it too is wired into a zero-cross detector on the CPU board. The 6803 can read this zero-cross signal directly because it has ports built into it's architecture.

The 6803 just had to keep track of which phase was supposed to be 'on' and toggle the SCRs. (It's likely that the DC solenoids were switched on or off at this point also as this would reduce noise/spikes etc.) Now what about the phase C & D zero-crossing? When are they switched on? Well, the processor wasn't interested in zero-crossing for these phases because *all* the secondary AC lines would pass through zero volts at the *same time*. Therefore, it just had to switch A & C on at the same time and B & D on after that using the interrupt generated from the phase B zero-cross (ad infinitum). This kept the phase switching syncronized. This differed from the technique used by Williams in their System11 pinballs to 'double up' a transistor (use a single transistor for two devices).

Williams used a A/C relay to control which device was energized. Bally's phase usage was much more elegant, and didn't require the use of a relay (which was problematic for Williams system11 games!) The games also had standard 6.3 volts AC for the General Illumination of the backbox, coin door, and playfield. The slingshot mechanism on a 6803 game (Eight Ball Champ). Very different than the other pinball makers! Solenoids were not multiplexed. There are a total of 19 solenoid driver transistor across the top edge of the CPU board. Transistor Q7, the right most transistor in the line, is used for the flipper relay, and the other 18 are for devices on the playfield.

These transistors are the SE9302/2N6045/TIP122/NTE263 variety, which can be replaced with the more robust TIP102 transistor. The art-less (and hence inexpensive) coin door area (Eight Ball Champ). Bally also incorporated some money saving ideas into this series of machines. For example, the front door area of the lower cabinet were all the same with generic black paint and a 'start game' sticker around the start switch. Later this went a step further and the cabinets became generic black with generic 'Bally/Midway' art stickers. Also Bally used press-board (fiber-board) cabinet wood, instead of plywood. This meant they also had to use 'T-molding' to prevent easy damage to the press-board on the edges (much like video game cabinets were made).

Bally also made a 'banana cabinet' on Dungeons & Dragons, Escape from the Lost World and Blackwater 100. They were called this because the bottom cabinet sort of bends in the middle. The banana cabinet is a little difficult to use with a dolly, although there is a board across the back end of the cabinet for helping dolly usage. Legs for these are custom, with 34.5' rears and standard 28.5' front legs. But the more common Gottlieb 31' and 27' legs can be used (rear/front respectively) with 3' leg levelers if the originals are gone.

Many Bally 6803 games used a single incandescent or fluorescent light for the backbox lighting, and all the games used only 555 bulbs (no 44/47 bulbs anywhere). Also on some 6803 games in the backbox are a small board called the Solid State Relay board. This turns the backbox incandescent bulb on and off. And games such as Dungeons & Dragons, Special Forces, Escape from the Lost World, Heavy Metal Meltdown and Blackwater 100 also used an additional 'fuse board', mounted on the left inside of the backbox.

The easily chiped and damaged press-board cabinet construction and T-molding (Eight Ball Champ). The generic cabinet art (Strange Science). Another Bally cost saving idea was the use of 'Low res' alpha-numerics displays. Starting with Motordome, 6803 games used 14 digit alpha-numeric score displays with nine segment instead of 14 segments (Williams System 11 games for example used 14 segment displays). This saved money as less expensive displays could be used, less display logic circuits were required, and less programming was needed. Unfortunately some of the Bally 6803 letters are decidedly funky looking, especially the 'K' and 'X', and the 'G' which looked like a '6'. The 6803 games also had some nifty software features unique to these games.

For example, on 6803 games with alpha-numeric displays (Special Forces for example), if the player pressed the flipper cabinet buttons during attract mode, the game would walk the player through the playfield shots. This was done by lighting playfield lamps and providing instructions on the score displays. Getting Started: Circuit Boards. The boards in Eight Ball Champ. Upper left is the sound board (Squawk & Talk), upper right is the 6803 Control Board, and lower right is the power supply board.

The boards in Strange Science. Upper left is the sound board (Cheap Squeak), upper right is the 6803 Control Board, and lower right is the power supply board. Note the incandescent backbox light, which should be replaced with a circular Fluorescent lamp.

The heat from the incandescent lamp can delaminate the translight's paint. The boards in Blackwater 100. Upper left is the Sounds Deluxe board, upper right is the 6803 Control Board, and lower right is the power supply board. Note the incandescent backbox light, which should be replaced with a circular Fluorescent lamp. Also note the fuse board on the left side of of the backbox, and the small solidstate relay boards.

And also note the lack of the transformer in the backbox (BW100 is the only game that did that). The boards in Atlantis, which was after Williams bought Bally. The upper left board is a Williams System 11 sound board, which interfaces to the 6803 CPU board through a small board to the right of the sound board.

The board on the upper right is a 50 volt flipper power supply, again from Williams' System11 series of games. The 6803 CPU board at the lower left and standard with no modifications, as is the original 6803 Bally power supply on the lower right. The external battery pack is not stock. Picture by A.Fleischacker.

The 6803 Control Board as used in all 6803 games. The 6803 Control Board's ever familiar NiCad rechargable battery, the power-on green LED, the flipper relay, and the U2/U3 game program EPROMs. The 6803 power supply board as used in all 6803 games. The Squawk & Talk sound board (Eight Ball Champ).

The Sounds Deluxe (68000 based) sound board (BW100). Atlantis' 6803/System11 Sound board. Atlantis' 6803/System11 Sound board and small Sound/CPU interface board. Atlantis' 6803/System11 50 volt flipper power supply board.

Dual Solidstate Relay board (HeavyMetal Meltdown). Solidstate Relay and Relay boards (BW100).

Before Turning the Game On: Check the Fuses (Blown Fuses and What Causes Them). The game's main power fuses are located on the power supply board. With the power off, remove each fuse and check with a DMM set to continuity. Also check the fuse for the proper value and type (slow or fast blow). Replace as needed.

The power supply board is nicely silkscreened with what each fuse does and its value. Upper left corner: • FU1 (43 vdc solenoids) = 5 amp slow-blo • FU3 (+5 vdc regulated) = 6 amp slow-blo Middle left side: • FU4 (Lamp Matrix 'A' voltage AC) = 8 amp slow-blo • FU5 (Lamp Matrxi 'B' voltage AC) = 8 amp slow-blo Middle (High Voltage): • FU2 (high voltage in) = 3/4 amp fast-blo • FU8 (high voltage out) = 3/16 amp fast-blo (short style fuse) Bottom left corner: • FU6 (G.I. Backbox) = 15 amp fast-blo • FU7 (G.I.

Playfield) = 15 amp fast-blo Power Supply Test Points. With the game's power on check the power supply test points: • TP10 = ground (bottom left corner) • TP1 = +5 volts DC (top right corner) • TP2 = 170-190 volts DC (high voltage out, middle of board, adjustable via trim pot VR1) • TP3 = 230 volts DC (high voltage in, middle of board) • TP4 = 43 volts DC (solenoid voltage, top left).

• TP5 = 14 volts DC (main logic power before regulation, middle of board) • TP6 & TP7 = 11 volts AC (lamp matrix) • TP8 & TP9 = 6.3 volts AC (General illumination) Missing Voltages and Blown Fuses. • No +5 volts or +14 volts DC. Check fuse FU3 (upper left). If TP1 shows no 5 volts DC, check TP5 which is the 14 volts DC that is processed through the U1 LM323 and filter capacitor C1 11,000mfd. If there is no 14 volts DC at TP5, there won't be any 5 volts at TP1. If FU3 is blown, one of the rectifying diodes at D1-D4 (3A1 diodes) could be shorted.

These are easily tested with a DMM set to diode function. • High Voltage for score displays. TP2 is higher than 190 volts DC (and can not be adjusted down using trim pot VR1). This means the high voltage section of the power supply is dead.

This is very common and will require replacement of Q1 (2n3584), Q2 (2n3440), Q3 (2n3440 with heat sink). If FU2 is blown (high voltage in), suspect one of the 1n4004 diodes D5-D8 as bad. These can be tested easily with a DMM set to the diode function. • No 43 volts for Solenoids. Blown fuse FU1 or bad bridge rectifier BR1 (35amps 200 volts). • No CPU controlled lamps. Check fuses FU4 and FU5, and power supply TP6/TP7 for 11 volts AC.

These are the two AC voltages needed for the lamp matrix power. The 6803 power supply board as used in all 6803 games and the fuses. CPU Board Test Points.

After the fuses are checked, and the game is powered on for the first time, it's not a bad idea to check the CPU board's Test Points (TP) for proper voltage. Here are the test points for the CPU board. • TP1 = 5 volts DC (4.9 to 5.2 volts DC), J1 pins 10-12. • TP2 = Ground, J1 pins 7-9 and J4 pins 5-6. • TP3 = 12 volts DC (unregulated 12 to 18 volts DC), J1 pin 6.

• TP4 = Battery voltage (3.5 to 4.5 volts DC) - Not needed to boot the game. A seperate fuse board mounted on the inside left of the backbox. This is used for individual solenoids and flash lamps. It's definitely in Dungeons & Dragons, Special Forces, Escape from the Lost World, Heavy Metal Meltdown, Blackwater 100 and Atlantis. Very common to have cold solder joints on this board too.

The 6803 fuse board used on some games, mounted on the inside left wall of the backbox (Blackwater 100). Before Turning the Game On: Burnt & Stressed Connectors and Cold Solder Joints. If any of the solenoid transistors lock on, the 1J14 connector on the upper left of of the CPU board often burns up. Replacement of the CPU power connector J1 is a good idea too. Stressed Connectors from Lowering and Raising the Backbox. The wires that run to the CPU board connectors J10, J11, J12, J13 can often break from lowering and raising the backbox. These IDC (Insulation Displayment Connector).100' Molex connectors are for the CPU controlled lamps, and don't handle stress very well.

The problem is the wiring is not looped through the backbox very well and is generally too short, and often the wires and/or connectors break. Things to check include: • Cracked/cold solder joints on the CPU board at connectors J10 to J13 (along the left side of the CPU board). • Wires pulled from the.100' IDC Molex connector pins on the CPU board at J10 to J13. • Wires pulled from the square.093' Molox connector pins in the wiring going to CPU board connectors J10 to J13. • Wires physically broken inside the insulation going to CPU board connectors J10 to J13. The last point is the most ugly, as a wire and its connector pins can look intact, but in fact be broken inside the insulation.

The only way to test for this is to use a DMM's continuity check from the playfield lamp to the CPU connector J10 to J13 in question. This problem will raise its ugly head when certain CPU controlled lamps do not work. Power Module Board connectors. There are some unusual sized Molex connector pins on the power module board.

These are.084' connectors. Here are the part numbers: •.084' connector pin male, Molex#. •.084' connector pin female, Molex#. Before Turning the Game On: Power Supply Tips The main voltage regulator used on the Bally 6803 power supply is a 78H05 five volt regulator, bolted to the large black heat sink. This is a TO-3 cased regulator that can output up to 5 amps at 5 volts.

Unfortunately this is a really hard part to find if it fails. Because of this I am going to try a LM323K voltage regulator, which is TO-3 cased, 3 amps at 5 volts. It is pin-for-pin compatible, and should work fine. The LM323K is used on the older 1977-1985 Bally power supplies, which for sure consumes more power than the newer 6803 system (since the 6803 has less circuit boards and fewer ROMs and less hungry RAM). So it should work just fine. I will report back here with my results.

Before Turning the Game On: Dead CPU Batteries and Corrupt Memory (Game Boots But Won't Start!) If the CPU battery goes dead on a 6803 game, this can cause some problems. Every time the game is turned on with a dead battery, the U4 CMOS memory is at risk of containing erroneous data, and the game may not start play, or even take credits. The problem can be seen by viewing the adjustments, and checking the value for the adjustment in question. Often seen is 9999999 for an adjustment that should have a value 0,1,2 or 3.

This can confuse the game enough to not allow a game to start. To fix this, obviously replace the battery.

The original NiCad rechargable should be replaced with AA batteries, as shown in the section of this document. Also make sure you have a manual for the game! Unfortunately, the adjustments are not obvious, and a manual is needed to figure out what adjustment is what, and what value it should be set to!

After the battery is replaced and the manual acquired, power the game on. The first thing to check is the number of credits per game in the adjustments. Press the small push button inside the coin door, next to the volume control. This should put the game into audits and adjustments. Using the manual and the 6803 keypad (Dungeons & Dragons and prior), find the credits-per-play adjustment, and make sure this adjustment is set to a valid number! If this is not done, the game will probably not accept credits, and won't start play! After the credits-per-play are entered, set all the other game adjustments as desired.

Note some games like Eight Ball Champ won't 'talk' unless the adjustments are set correctly. For example, on Eight Ball Champ, adjustment 50 should be set to use the Squawk & Talk sound board (value=1), and sounds mode adjustment 27 set (value=3), otherwise the game will not talk. Also check the balls-per-game adjustment (EBC adjustment 23) is set to a valid number of balls (one to five). Match can be turned on and off (EBC adjustment 29 value=1) on these games, and the credit displayed on the game (EBC adjustment 30 value=1) can be turned on and off. All 6803 games also have a 'free play' adjustment (EBC adjustment 42), and if this is set to value 65, the game will start without coins.

Before Turning the Game On: Quick and Dirty Transistor Testing. With the game on, the wiring from the CPU board to the coils, and the coils themselves, can be easily tested. Just momentarily ground the metal tab of any of the 19 solenoid transistors across the top edge of the CPU board. Solenoid driver transistors.

When Things Don't Work: Power-On LED Flashes (Non-Working CPU), Corrupt Memory. A concept transplanted from the earlier and very successful Bally '-35' CPU board was the power-on LED flashes. The new 6803 CPU board also had power-on flashes to diagnose problems with the board. This power-on flash concept stayed until Escape from Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truckstop and Atlantis, when Bally took a step back. Instead of doing the power-on flashes, these games had one faint flicker at power-on if the CPU board passed power-on diagnostics.

If the board found a problem, then the flash sequence starts. CPU LED Flash Overview by Game. • Beat the Clock: 8 LED flashes (No U2 ROM). • Motordome: 9 LED flashes. • Strange Science: 9 LED flashes.

• Heavy Metal Meltdown: 9 LED flashes. • Blackwater 100: No LED flashes. • Escape from Lost World: No LED flashes. • Eight Ball Champ: 8 LED flashes (no U2 ROM). Fuse FU5 removed - 6 flashes Fuse FU4 removed - 7 flashes CPU Board Power-On LED Flash Codes. The number of game ROMs used and the era of the 6803 determines the number of power-on CPU board LED flashes. Flash code verification thanks to Clive!

Here is the layout: • Eight power-on LED flashes. Single CPU game ROM at U3.

Includes Cybernaut, Eight Ball Champ, Hot Shotz, and Lady Luck. • Nine power-on LED flashes. CPU game ROMs at U2/U3. Includes Motordome, Karate Fight, Black Belt, Special Forces, Strange Science, Hardbody, Party Animal, Heavy Metal Meltdown, Dungeons & Dragons. • No initial power on LED flashes (though sometimes a faint power-on LED flicker can be seen). Escape from the Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truck Stop, Atlantis.

If CPU board passes all power-on tests there are no flashes. If an error is found, up to nine LED flashes will be seen. Clive tells us for all the 6803 games except Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truck Stop, Atlantis, the tests work like this. A test is performed, then the LED is flashed once if the test passes, then another test is performed, the LED is flashed again if the test passes, and so on and so on, until all eight or nine tests are complete. If a test fails, the code actually loops forever within the test routine detecting the fault, and no flash is shown for this test. On the last four games Escape from the Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truck Stop, Atlantis, things are done a bit differently. Bally states, 'if there is +5 volt DC and +14 volts DC on the CPU board, the game performs a self-diagnostic test.

When no problems are encountered, the game powers up immediately without flashing the LED on the Control Board. When a problem is detected, the LED will flash the appropriate number of times for each diagnostic test passed (I.E. If the LED only flashes three times, U4 is probably defective, using the table of power-up sequences below.' This is done because as each test is performed, the number of errors encountered is logged.

At the end of testing the hardware, the routine that flashes the LED checks this log to determine if it has any flashes (errors) to report. If there are errors, it flashes the LED from the last test passed to indicate where the problem lies. Also note on these last four games an initial power-on faint flicker can be seen. Yet there is nothing in the ROM code that's deliberately causing the power-on 'flicker'. It just a buy-product of accessing the ports a number of times.

The 6803 Control Board's ever familiar power-on green LED. Eight LED Power-on Flashes Decoded. Here are the meaning of the LED codes for games Cybernaut, Eight Ball Champ, Hot Shotz, and Lady Luck. • 1st flash - CPU internal Static RAM test on U1 (6803, 0x0080-0x00ff).

• 2nd flash - U3 program ROM validated. • 3rd flash - U4 (6116 CMOS) Static RAM test.

• 4th flash - U8 (6821) PIA-0 test. • 5th flash - U7 (6821) PIA-1 test. • 6th flash - U1 (6803) internal timer test. • 7th flash - U8 (6821) test for lamp phasing logic test 'B' phase of CPU controlled lamps. Fuse F5 on power supply provides the phase B signal to the CPU board for U8 (6821), U12 (4584). • 8th flash - Zero cross test U1 (6803), U11 (4011), U12 (4584) for lamp phasing logic test 'A' phase of CPU controlled lamps. Fuse F4 on power supply provides the phase A signal to the CPU board for U1 (6803), U11 (4011), U12 (4584).

Nine LED Power-on Flashes and (No Power-on Flashes) Decoded. All other games use a nine LED flash code system, including the last four games that have no power-on flash system (unless a problem is encountered): • 1st flash - CPU internal RAM test on U1 (6803).

• 2nd flash - U2 program ROM validated. • 3rd flash - U3 program ROM validated. • 4th flash - U4 (6116 CMOS) Static RAM test. • 5th flash - U8 (6821) PIA-0 test.

• 6th flash - U7 (6821) PIA-1 test. • 7th flash - Checks internal display interrupt generator U1 (6803). • 8th flash - Checks U12 (4584), U8 (6821) for lamp phasing logic test 'B' phase of CPU controlled lamps. Fuse F5 on power supply provides the phase B signal to the CPU board for U12 (4584), U8 (6821).

• 9th flash - Checks U1 (6803), U11 (4011), U12 (4584) for lamp phasing logic test 'A' phase of CPU controlled lamps. Fuse F4 on power supply provides the phase A signal to the CPU board for U1 (6803), U11 (4011), U12 (4584). Remember, Escape from the Lost World, Blackwater 100, Truck Stop, and Atlantis will have no flash codes unless the CPU board thinks there is a problem. Corrupt Memory.

The memory get corrupt from a bad battery and or bad RAM chip, and the game won't work properly. For example, game will boot up, but won't accept credits or start a game. Solution: reset the adjustments or go thru the adjustments looking for nonsensical values (8 balls per games for example), and reset that adjustment to the correct value. When Things Don't Work: 6803 ROM Software and Jumper Settings.

CPU Board Jumper Settings JW1 to JW6. Jumpers W1 to W6 on the CPU board determine the size of the U2/U3 game EPROMs (both of these EPROMs should be the same size, and some games only use the U3 EPROM).

• 2732 U2/U3 EPROMs: Jumpers JW1,3,5=in, JW2,4,6=out. • 2764 U2/U3 EPROMs: Jumpers JW5=in, JW1,2,3,4,6=out. • 27128 U2/U3 EPROMs: Jumpers JW2,4,6=in, JW1,3,5=out.

The 6803 Control Board's jumpers JW1 to JW4, by the U3 and U4 chips in the upper right corner, below the flipper relay. The 6803 Control Board's jumpers JW5 to JW7. JW5/JW6 is between U9/U10, and JW7 is below and to the left of U1 (the 6803 CPU chip). CPU Board Jumper Setting JW7. Jumper JW7 should always be out, as this jumpers pulls up the processor serial receiver pin via a 3.3k pull-up.

CPU Board Jumper Settings JW8 to JW11. There are two general purpose light driver circuits and two general purpose drive lines (switches etc). These are 'open-ended' and for expansion. There are two spare 'General Purpose' (GP) PIA port output lines, and these can be left alone or linked into the driver circuits (game specific).

The 6803 Control Board's jumpers JW8 to JW11, by the U8 and U7 6821 chips, in the top middle of the CPU board. These four individual driver circuits on the CPU board that are not connected to *anything* at their logic input. However, their outputs are wired to the connector and pins numbers listed below. Two are light solenoid GP (General Purpose) drivers, and there are two light switch driver circuits.

They are 'spare driver circuits' the board designers incorporate in the game for use if the game needs it. • Jumper JW8 in: PB14 drives GP driver circuit 1 (J9 pin 9). • Jumper JW9 in: PB14 drives light switch drive 1 (J4 pin 1). • Jumper JW10 in: PB15 drives GP driver circuit 2 (J7 pin 4 and/or J6 pin 7).

• Jumper JW11 in: PB15 drives light switch drive 2 (J2 pin 19). So how are these spare drivers used? Well also on the CPU board are two spare PIA outputs, PB14 and PB15, from the 6821 PIA at U7.

These too are not connected to anything. This is where the jumpers come in. If the game needs them they can be linked up using the jumpers listed above, and have the software control the driver circuits via the PIA outputs PB14 and PB15. For example, here are the jumpers for Escape from Lost World and Strange Science. Note jumpers JW1 to JW6 are the same for both games (they both use the same size game EPROMs at U2/U3).